As the summer heats up, get out to Oakridge and cool down with our newest, most refreshing, products! During these hot months, our master gardeners have water (and lots of it) on the brain. They keep our greenery lush all season long and the nursery overflowing with cool water features.

Ever wonder how they keep our plants so fresh? Check out their five best-kept watering secrets below:

Water plants at the base, not over the top.
Watering on top of the leaves can promote fungus and other leaf diseases. Also, putting super cold water on leaves when it is hot outside can damage the plant.

Always test the soil before you water.
Some plants can look droopy because of the heat, and not necessarily because they are dry. Make sure the soil is dry, not damp or wet, before watering.

The best time of day to water is in the morning.
If you can, water your plants in the morning. That way, they have time to soak up the water before the heat of the day. This also allows them to not stay wet overnight, which can cause fungus and disease.

Some plants need more water than others.
Become familiar with your landscape and learn which plants need water more often than others. Trees, non-irrigated, need water once every 10 to 14 days; shrubs, once a week; perennials, once every 4 to 5 days; and annuals, once per day or every other day depending on the size of the planter.

A good tree deep watering is better less often than watering a little every day.
For new trees, let the hose trickle on the tree for 10 to 15 minutes once every 10 to 14 days. This will keep your tree happier and healthier than watering it a little bit every day.

For more tips, tricks, and to see our water-inspired products, visit us in store today!

Although it isn’t officially fall until late September, once school starts we know we all start to transition seasons.

The leaves start changing and the temperatures get a little lower, giving us more energy to get things done we’ve been putting off during the 90+ degree days. 

SO WHAT ABOUT INSTALLING NEW PLANTS?

Believe it or not, fall is an incredible time to get your planting done. The soil is still warm while the air is cooling down which allows the plant to focus on root development. 

Trees and shrubs can be planted through October, whereas perennials should be planted by the first part of October to give them enough time to establish their roots before hitting freezing temperatures.

While fall is often cooler and rainy, newly installed plants shouldn’t be forgotten when it comes to watering, especially if it is hot, dry or windy. Before you pull your hoses in for the winter, Continue to water perennials once a week (1 gallon), shrubs once every 7-10 days (3-5 Gallons) and trees once every 10-14 days (5-7 Gallons) until the ground freezes.

Don’t be alarmed when you don’t see growth on your new plants, that’s actually a good thing. We do not recommend using fertilizer past the beginning of August, but would suggest using a root stimulator instead. 

Fall planting is with the intention of root development and getting off to a good start in their new home. Come spring, your plants will grow as if they’re already had a full season under their belt.

WHAT ABOUT MUMS? 

Well, mums are a little tricky to overwinter in the midwest (Yes, even Hardy Mums).  They add great color in your planters after the summer annuals are done thriving.  However, if you plan on planting them in the ground, make sure to plant early and add a protective barrier around the base of the plant with mulch or leaves to insulate the root system during the winter months.

In fact, we recommend adding a layer of mulch around the base of all plants for extra insulation, even established plants benefit from the protection.

The dog days of summer, when temperatures reach their peak, are here. Help save your drooping flowers from the heat of summer by being proactive, and get the best yield possible from your plants by refreshing the fertilizer in your pots, garden and lawn.

At Oakridge Nursery, we carry only the finest fertilizer from Fertilome. We have a variety of types on hand, including slow release fertilizer, which produces maximum yields slowly, over the course of three months, and fast-acting water soluble fertilizer, which gets into the root system quickly.

This time of year, your tired plants could use a boost of phosphorus to promote full color, blooming and fruiting well into the fall! We have the know-how and the fertilizer you need to do just that.

Give your garden, plants and lawn the boost they need, and maximize their performance during July and August, when the summer sun is hottest.

ABOUT WATERING

Three things are required for every plant: air, earth and most of all, water.  Water is vital in transporting soil nutrients.  The presence of water in the soil governs how deep a plant sends roots into the earth, and this in turn is directly related to its ability to withstand drought. Proper watering is the key to healthy and beautiful plants.  However, homeowners lose far more trees, shrubs, and perennials to over watering than any other reason.

HOW MUCH WATER

Many factors play a role in how much water each specific plant needs.  These factors include, but are not limited to:  plant variety, temperature, humidity, wind, soil type, and soil condition.  Too much water and your plants root zone stays saturated and can no longer take up oxygen.  The plant will slowly die.  However, if you do not water adequately, the plant will begin wilting and eventually expire.  A general guideline for new plants is:

Trees:  Once every two weeks, five to seven gallons
Shrubs: Once a week, three to five gallons
Perennials: Once a week initially, one gallon

These are general guidelines for watering and we suggest that prior to watering new plants check for soil saturation levels. If the root zone and surrounding soil is wet, let dry out before watering again.

DEEP WATERING

It is suggested to begin deep watering early on with new plants.  Deep watering discourages surface rooting plants and promotes a deep root system.  Well rooted plants are able to resist drought early on.  Homeowners are under a mistaken assumption automatic sprinkler systems are a way to water their lawn and landscape plants too.  Frequent lawn watering does not allow room for oxygen in the soil and deep roots do not form.  The plants become dependent on the water supply and usually have a difficult time sending out enough roots to sustain the plant in dry conditions.

Whether you grow them in attractive tubs on your patio or in a full-scale vegetable garden, you know there’s nothing better than the flavor of a home-grown tomato.

BLT’s, tomato jelly, salsa, hamburgers topped with a big tomato slice…that’s the true acknowledgement that summer is here. But each year, home gardeners, waiting eagerly for their tomatoes to ripen, are faced with annoying tomato diseases and environmental stresses. The most common is blossom end rot.

Blossom end rot shows up as a water-soaked brown or black spot on the blossom end of the fruit. These spots enlarge rapidly and may grow together forming extensive areas of damage.

Affected areas are commonly invaded by secondary fungi and bacteria that cause soft rot and fruit decay. Blossom end rot commonly occurs when the plants have grown rapidly and luxuriantly during the early part of the season and then are subject to fluctuations in moisture (too little or too much) when the fruits are at an early stage of development. These fluctuations or an excess of nitrogen fertilizer causes a lack of calcium in the developing tomato.

To control it, mulch and water plants during dry spells to maintain uniform soil moisture levels. Avoid excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers or large quantities of manure. Plant in well drained soil and do not cultivate deeper then one inch within one foot of the plant.

Blossom end rot is found wherever tomatoes are grown. The rotted areas are unsightly but the unaffected part of the fruit is edible. Blossom end rot usually disappears after the first group of tomatoes mature.

If we’ve learned anything about South Dakota it’s that we can never predict what weather spring will bring.

While a forecast of sunny days brings some excitement, it also reminds us of the work we need to do to get our landscaping in tip-top shape.

Below is a list of steps to get your yard ready for the season to come.

Seeds:  April is a great time to start seeds 

but keep in mind that our average last frost date is around May 12th.

Unwrap your trees: Remove tree protectors around any trees or shrubs.

Spray fruit trees: There are three applications that are important to prevent disease.

1st. Application:  When the buds are pink

2nd Application:  After the blossoms have dropped

3rd Application:  One month later after the last application

Cut back perennials: If you saved the pruning for later, now is the time to cut perennials back to the ground.

Mulch: Many will “Mulch in” their plants for extra insulation over the winter. Pull back the mulch and clean up any old leaves that may have been left behind. Top dress existing mulch every few years to freshen it up

Enrich existing garden soil with compost: Over time our soil loses nutrients due to soil leaching. To continue providing a nutrient-rich area for your plants to thrive, it is important to enrich your soil.

Check out these general summer care tips to make sure your lawn, garden and trees stay healthy and green all summer long. It has been a hot season, and now, more than ever, you need to make sure your garden and home landscape are getting the proper attention.

GENERAL SUMMER SEASON TIPS

Stake larger varieties of perennials such as delphiniums
Begin leaf spot control on tomato plants and stake young tomato plants; late staking contributes to blossom end rot
Tie climbing roses to trellises
Perform last picking of rhubarb at the end of the month to allow roots to store energy for the next season
Mulch you garden after the soil has warmed up later in the month
Fertilize lawns, flowers, and gardens
Continue weeding
Prune and shape new growth on arborvitae, juniper, and yew
Trim evergreens and hedges
Prune pines, spruce, and fir trees early to mid June

As temperatures warm up, it’s important to get your garden fertilized and ready for planting. Be sure to work fertilizers into vegetable and flower gardens before planting.

Oakridge Nursery carries a variety of fertilizers that will help energize your soil to ensure the proper growth of all your plants and vegetables. Also be sure not to plant annuals and geraniums until frost is no longer a danger.

Here is the full care checklist for the month of May!

Apply crabgrass preventer to lawns.
Work fertilizer into vegetable and flower gardens before they are planted.
Fertilize roses and begin maintenance program against black spot and mildew.
Mulch flower gardens to conserve moisture and reduce weed growth.
Install peony hoops.
Protect garden from deer browsing.
Plant summer blooming bulbs
Plant annuals and geraniums after frost is no longer a danger.
Apply pre-emergent weed control in shrub and planting beds.
Remove accumulated leaves and debris from underneath evergreens and shrubs.
Prune forsythia, azaleas, magnolia, mockorange, and lilac after they have flowered; all spring flowering shrubs should be pruned right after flowering
Begin apple tree spray programs after blossom drop
Make sure freshly planted trees and shrubs are watered (see watering guidelines).
Prune mugho pines when new growth is fully grown and soft.
Fertilize established trees, evergreens, and shrubs; start fertilizer program.
Rake, over seed, and fertilize the lawn; avoid applying crabgrass preventer to newly over seeded areas; seed new lawns while nights are still cool and the weather is wet.
Control dandelions and creeping Charlie by applying herbicide before heads are formed

During the month of April, it’s important to uncover any winter mulches put in place before the winter season. It’s also the time to divide and replant any overgrown perennials to ensure proper future growth. Trees and plants can be planted as soon as the ground is dry enough for digging. Late frosts and unexpected snowfalls will not harm the growth of newly planted trees.

Here is the full April Care Checklist!

Uncover and remove winter mulch from roses, spring bulbs, and perennials
Divide and replant overgrown perennials.
Till flower and vegetable garden soil and add composted cow manure, peat moss, or compost.
Remove rose cones.
Plant trees and shrubs as soon as the ground is dry enough for digging; late frost and snow will not hurt newly planted trees.
Apply fresh mulch around trees and shrubs for weed control.
Prune hedges and summer flowering shrubs; check for damage and remove broken branches.
Remove tree wrap when snow melts.
Fertilize trees and shrubs.
Fertilize spring bulbs when foliage emerges.

Proper pruning is vital to long term plant growth. When pruning any tree, start by cutting out broken, dead, or diseased branches. Next, focus on the tree’s structure, size, and shape. Focus on removing competing branches or co-dominant leaders (branches in the center of the tree fighting to be the tallest). Two competing leaders can easily serve as a breaking point as the tree matures. When pruning, make close (but not flush) and clean cuts. Minimize stubs that encourage decay and canker. If left un-pruned these areas may serve as a source of injury to the parent branch or trunk. Finally, prune with moderation, removing branches only when there is a very good reason for doing so. Heavy pruning can upset the balance between wood growth and root growth, and on fruit trees, can result in loss of crop. Follow these general pruning practices for trees, shrubs, and evergreens:

TREES

The best time for most trees is in late winter or early spring while still dormant. Maple, elm, black walnut, and birch bleed heavily when pruned in the spring. This doesn’t hurt the tree, however if concerned about sap flow wait until trees are leafed out before pruning. Fruit trees can be pruned anytime from March to early April.

SHRUBS

Spring flowering shrubs should be pruned right after flowering. Pruning early blooming shrubs late in the year will reduce plants chance of producing spring blooms. Other shrubs may be pruned while they are dormant. Avoid pruning late in the summer, as this may result in a flush of growth which may not harden off in time to prevent winter injury.

EVERGREENS

Arborvitaes, yews, and junipers are best pruned before new growth begins in early spring (April or May). A follow-up pruning can be carried out in June or early July to shape the new growth.